It was the weirdest sensation yesterday sailing up from Port Townsend, past Victoria, to Bedwell Harbour on Pender Island. Past Victoria… there it was, Mt Doug, Cadboro Bay, Oak Bay, the golf club… So familiar but not because I haven’t seen it in over a year. I’d never been down in the San Juan’s before so coming back up and seeing Victoria in clear daylight really brought it home. We’ve checked into Canadian customs finally. Officially in Canada. This is the last customs we will have to clear on Offshore! We’re here, even though we don’t sail into the Inner Harbour until Saturday. Now all that remains is to make the most of the last few days that we are here together on the boat and prepare for sailing in next week. The Swift will be doing some schooner ballet with us outside the waterfront for a bit before we sail in at 3pm. There’s going to be a big ceremony in the Inner Harbour complete with some speeches from Skipper and a couple trainees and there will be some photos from all over place! Come and party with us!
Tag Archives: salts
The Day the Sea was Lighter than the Sky
Having passed Cape Guadarfui, we have entered a zone of absolute calm. For the last 48 hours the sea has been smooth and oily, except where a slight breeze ruffles its surface or covers it with a network of minute wrinkles as regular as the weave of a tapestry. Upon this mirror flying-fish rise up, glide, and take off again, like swallows skimming the water. In the middle of this great shoreless lake the evenings take on an exquisite beauty. Yesterday I could never tire of looking to the east where the sea was uniformly milky and green, with opalescence that was still not transparent, lighter than the background of the sky. Suddenly on the horizon a thin diffuse cloud became tinged with pink; and then with little oily ripples of the ocean still opal on one side and turning to lilac on the other, the whole sea looked for a few seconds like watered silk. Then the light was gone and the stars began to be reflected around us as peacefully as in the water of a quiet pool.
And one last photo to prove we’re alive and well…
This is from the leg end dinner last leg. We’re all alive and well!
Yeah Leg 7!
Aloha! Here I am in Kauai… back where it is lush and green and there are lots of beaches and sea turtles. Jose rented a car this morning so Antony and two of the trainees, Emily and Rona, and I headed out on an epic adventure. We drove up to the north side of the Island and after stopping for an amazing smoothie in Hanelai, we found a great little beach with lovely sand that was so hot my feet got pretty nearly burnt. I actually paused to pour water on them at one point so they would not burn. We did some snorkeling there and Rona and I found some serious amounts of sea turtles. One guy had his head stuck in a hole, wedging himself in with his flipper and was having the feast of his life. It was pretty neat to see. Thanks to a waterproof disposable camera someone gave me at the end of leg 5, I have some photos so we’ll see how those turn out. Now we’re wandering around, pausing to find this free wifi place. I’m cooking the next two days, so I’ll hang out closer to the boat and toast on the beach at the Marriot Hotel beside us in Nawiliwili. Thursday night or Friday morning we will jump off to head home. We should be back on that side of the ocean for the first time in a year about 18 days later! I’m looking forward to this passage. I know I say this every leg, but I really like these guys and I’m looking forward to having a passage with them. I just hope that I can keep up the energy for the last month of Offshore before I go into hibernation at home! I spent my days off in Honolulu playing with the new computer and getting all my photos organised on here. I’ve begun a slideshow of my photos for each leg so I won’t be tormenting anyone with all 5000 photos that I’ve taken to date… Yay digital. Looking forward to the trade winds as we sail home.
Is it Really Almost Done?
Leg 6 is officially over. Here I am, sitting in my $150/night hotel room that I got for half price because I was upgraded when I got here. I just finished my massage in the mini-spa beside the pool out back and my room overlooks Waikiki. Maybe I’ll just stay here for the next month and fly home for the end of offshore.
Then, Skipper announced we were going to call in at Midway Atoll. All along, I had dreamed of visiting Midway, but it was out of the question: as a US Military Base and being way south of our course line, it would never happen. But, the military moved out nearly 10 years ago and all that is left on the island is a wildlife refuge. And, we were already way south of our projected course because of the storm. Skipper had contacted the island and told them we needed to fuel up and re-provision and could we please have permission to land. Happily, they said yes and, amid much excitement on our part (and theirs too, I think) we docked in Midway for two days. Katie and I had a great time with Pong and JR, the chef on the Island and the logistics guy in charge of all the ordering, getting lots of food for the boat. Everyone nearly died when they saw all the fresh stuff we loaded on board: it had been a few weeks since we’d had anything not dried or canned.




Then, it was back to sea. One more week until Oahu, and we all strove to make the best of it. I will admit, it did not really feel like we were actually going to make it there until we could see the lights of Honolulu (a weird sight after 30+ days at sea!).










The security guard came out at one point, and we all thought we were busted, but it turns out he was bringing us napkins. We needed them.
35 Days Later…
After the longest passage in SALTS history (and much longer than I thought it would be…!) we’ve finally arrived in Honolulu. We arrived Sunday mid-morning and Katie and I promptly did a very, very, very large grocery shop. We also opened lots of wonderful mail (thank you!!!) and enjoyed a fresh water “shower” from the hose on the dock.
Somewhere in the Middle of No and Where
Two days ago, I was on the boat anticipating a long slog to Hawaii with little fuel left and decreasing selections of food to be had. Today, I am sitting in the “Empire Cafe” Internet Cafe on Midway Atoll at the very northern-most tip of the Hawaiian archipelego (although not a part of the state of Hawaii). Midway, you may know, was the site of an etremely important battle which turned the tide in the War in the Pacific in WWII. It has long been a midway in the Pacific stopping zone (hence the highly creative and origninal name of the island). Up until about 10 years ago, there was a huge military presence on the island. Now the only people who live here are scientists and people to maintain the infrastructure of the airport etc. Oh, and over 2 million birds. Midway is now a wildlife preserve and there are over 2 million albatross, not to mention the petrels, shearwaters, tropicbirds, terns, and goodness knows what else. You can’t move without tripping over an albatross chick. The ginormous, ugly creatures basically can’t move and sit there chirping loudly at you and smacking their beak in your general direction. Then there are the shearwater burrows which are everywhere so you can’t leave the road without the possibility of falling into a hole and breaking your ankle. All that being said, this is a pretty darn cool place to be! I never thought I would ever get to come here, and, in fact, we didn’t really plan too. It just happened… Albatross are pretty funny birds. On the beach they call them goonies, because they really are goons on land. So graceful on water, complete klutzes when it comes to walking. If you have ever seen “The Rescuers Down Under” (if you haven’t, it is a fine example of Disney so you should see it), then you have some idea of how albatross take off and land. When they are going for a take off, it is a running start with wings fully extended to their 6ft span, flapping and you hear “thwap, thwap, thwap, thwap” as they pelt down the road. After about 20ft, they are ready to take off. When landing, they come in, backing their wings like crazy. If they are lucky, their feet hit before their chest. Either way, they slide a foot or so on the chest before coming to a complete stop and standing up. It is quite a sight to behold.
So that is Midway Atoll. We’re here until tomorrow morning, and now I am off to enjoy the beach with sand and water the colour of everything we saw in the South Pacific.
And We`re Off…
All going well, we leave tomorrow for Hawaii – a 3 to 4 week passage. I`m hoping for the 3. I`ve engineered things with Katie that I will not be cooking tomorrow, instead I cooked yesterday and today. I thought it was time for a change and not cook the first day out for the 6th leg in a row. How I love getting seasick that early…! We found Costco today and managed to shop without a membership (actually, we bought a membership, shopped, then cancelled the membership once we were done. The condition is that we cannot get a membership in Japan again for a year. I don`t think that will be a problem). They didn`t really have a lot of the things we were hoping for. Apparently Japan doesn`t use bleach. Anyway, we did find some things that we were happy to get and I now have a ginormous box of animal crackers in my `stash.` Don`t anyone tell the little Anderson boys or I will never have a second of peace.
Right now, I am hanging out on the free Internet in the hotel (Universal Port Hotel) right beside the boat hoping that Dad and Colleen decide to come home from church early (I think its 10 am for them, 7pm for me) and I get to talk to them on skype before I leave. Tomorrow will probably be busy with garbage going, fuel and water coming, and clearing out in crazy Japanese style.
Our new group of trainees seem like a lot of fun. This is our biggest turnover of trainees since Hawaii between leg 1 and 2. Having that many trainees for whom this is their first ever Offshore experience adds a certain amount of excitement and anticipation, despite the long passage ahead. I`ve sailed with 2 or 3 of them before and know a few others (siblings of Sarah, my old roommate and our WO on the boat). We have lots of food on board, so now I`m just waiting to go. I`m kind of over Japan, as much fun as it has been. One last stop to the santo tonight for the last bit of clean before we hit the open ocean. There is a nice American guy who we`ve run into at the hotel here who is over from LA working on a new show that just opened up at Universal Studios. He`s let us use his room for showers a couple times (which has been heavenly). He just walked by me here in the lobby and was telling me about the crowdedness on the trains in Tokyo (I was telling him that half of Japan was at Costco today). Apparently his translator, a tiny 90lb (ish) woman has had ribs broken on the trains in Tokyo. It gets that crowded. Yay for height and basketball rebounding skills.
And now, back to Kyoto, I ended up getting a kimono at the flea market after all! I found a really nice one for relatively cheap and so now I have a kimono. Don`t know when I`ll wear it, but it sure is pretty!
So wish us fair wind and good seas so that we make good time and I don`t have to start rationing food. These guys seem like big eaters so far…! I`ll talk to you in Hawaii in about a month or so!
City of Shrines, Temples, and Kimonos
So tried on a kimono today at this shop in Kyoto that sells used kimonos. It was very nice, but I decided that spending $100 on something pretty that I would never ever wear was somewhat superfluous. I tried to justify it by thinking that I would use it as a bathrobe, but that’s an expensive bathrobe. So I do not have a kimono. I do, however, have way too many photos of temples and shrines and other very cool things here. Today was a national holiday because it is the first day of spring. Last night, all the temples in the area where I am staying (Higashiyama = Eastern Mountains, really close to Gion, the geisha district) were lit up and open late to celebrate. It would have been awesome if it wasn`t for the fact that it was literally pissing down rain. I have never gotten so wet in my life. My jeans and shoes were still soaked this morning despite using an entire newspaper to stuff then last night. My gigantic umbrella gave up from overuse and began to leak so I had to buy a new one this morning to stay dry.
Today, I hit up a bunch of temples and shrines, mostly Zen Buddhist ones, which was a nice change from the ornate and over-the-top Buddhism I am used to from China. One had a large raked rock and large stone garden which, apparently, is famous for it aesthetic nature or something like that. Two of them were world heritage sites. Because of the public holiday, you could get into temples etc free if you were wearing a kimono so there were women everywhere in beautiful ones. At one of the temples, I was pondering the garden and I hear a `Gillian…?!?` I turn around, and there is Leighsa, our watch leader this leg. Of all the people in Japan, what is the chance?? To make the world even smaller, she is staying at a hostel in town with an Australian Katie and I met last week in Osaka. Craziness.
And possibly very exciting was that today I saw MONKEYS! Thats right, I saw Japanese Snow Monkeys. These guys are the furthest north living monkeys that exist and they are ugly. But, they are monkeys and they do what monkeys do, including jump at you and hiss while you are taking a picture so that your picture ends up one big blurr because you are so freaked out by it. From the hill where they were, there was a great view of Kyoto. It was a good wander up there.
My 2 days of Kyoto adventuring is over tomorrow – I head back to Osaka after lunch to meet up with the rest of the crew. Thanks for the tips, Colleen, we can compare notes when I get home and you can see how much has changed in 25 years!!
Hiroshima, Osaka, Kyoto… where did Leg 5 go?!?
Here I am sitting in Universal Port Hotel at Universal Studios Japan, using their free Internet. How did I get here?? The boat is docked just outside the hotel, meaning we get to hear the wonderful theme music day in and day out. The downside of this location is that we are pretty much in the middle of nowhere Osaka, but that is the price to pay for celebrity status I suppose. I`m getting pretty good at figuring out the train system here – I`ve even got optimum places on the platform to stand cased so that I get on and off the train in the right spot to make my transfer or leave the station. I know, I`m a geek.
Leg 5 is over in 2 days. Most of last week was spent grocery shopping and stowing quantities of food not seen since the dock in Victoria. This time, however, we couldn`t fit all the produce in the bunk… mind you, we had to change produce and can bunks around because of a starboard list, so the produce bunk is now half the size it used to be. Where were you, Jen, when we needed you! We now have some cans in the galley bilge, which will make some food prep easier – we won`t have to transport them half the length of the boat in heavy seas.
Backtracking to Hiroshima: visiting the A-bomb dome and Peace Park was a moving experience. I felt much the same there that I did at a concentration camp in Germany: horror at the destruction that humanity is capable of at the hands of a few people, but here there was hope. Hiroshima is at the centre of an international campaign to rid the world of nukes. Everytime a country tests a nuclear weapon, they send a telegram of protest, even today. It was quite impressive. Hiroshima was a pretty city with the nicest onsen we`ve visited yet (I`ve been to three now). I took the ferry out to Miyajima one day, an island in the bay near Hiroshima which is covered with shrines and temples. It has the large Torii (Shinto Shrine Gate) that seemingly floats in the water when the tide is up – it is apparently the third most photographed thing in Japan, so you`ve probably seen it before. When I get my photos up, you will see it, from every angle!
Osaka is fairly boring as far as culture goes. Its main purpose seems to be shopping, something it does with style. That and Universal Studios. It does have a sweet castle which Sarah L and I visited yesterday. The cherry blossoms are in full force right now and everyone (and their micro dog, all of which were dressed up in shirts and pants or skirts and bows, some with shoes… its slightly creepy the amount of clothes they put on dogs here) in town was there I think.
Today is more grocery shopping for the stuff we couldn`t get from the wholesaler and then, I hope we will be done. Leg end dinner/desert night is tomorrow and we have yet to plan that too…





