Yeah Leg 7!

Aloha!  Here I am in Kauai… back where it is lush and green and there are lots of beaches and sea turtles.  Jose rented a car this morning so Antony and two of the trainees, Emily and Rona, and I headed out on an epic adventure.  We drove up to the north side of the Island and after stopping for an amazing smoothie in Hanelai, we found a great little beach with lovely sand that was so hot my feet got pretty nearly burnt.  I actually paused to pour water on them at one point so they would not burn.  We did some snorkeling there and Rona and I found some serious amounts of sea turtles.  One guy had his head stuck in a hole, wedging himself in with his flipper and was having the feast of his life.  It was pretty neat to see.  Thanks to a waterproof disposable camera someone gave me at the end of leg 5, I have some photos so we’ll see how those turn out.  Now we’re wandering around, pausing to find this free wifi place.  I’m cooking the next two days, so I’ll hang out closer to the boat and toast on the beach at the Marriot Hotel beside us in Nawiliwili.  Thursday night or Friday morning we will jump off to head home.  We should be back on that side of the ocean for the first time in a year about 18 days later!  I’m looking forward to this passage.  I know I say this every leg, but I really like these guys and I’m looking forward to having a passage with them.  I just hope that I can keep up the energy for the last month of Offshore before I go into hibernation at home!  I spent my days off in Honolulu playing with the new computer and getting all my photos organised on here.  I’ve begun a slideshow of my photos for each leg so I won’t be tormenting anyone with all 5000 photos that I’ve taken to date…  Yay digital.  Looking forward to the trade winds as we sail home.

Is it Really Almost Done?

Leg 6 is officially over.  Here I am, sitting in my $150/night hotel room that I got for half price because I was upgraded when I got here.  I just finished my massage in the mini-spa beside the pool out back and my room overlooks Waikiki.  Maybe I’ll just stay here for the next month and fly home for the end of offshore. 

This leg, while being lots of hard work because of its length and the challenges we faced, had one of the most amazing communities develop of all of offshore.  Our first week out at sea from Osaka, it seemed that something went wrong with the stove daily.  It got to the point of me being frustrated to tears.  The problems seem to have been the result of a wonky carburator (which has been replaced) and some dirty fuel from Japan (which is all used up).  Then, after running way south to a void a storm and staying hove to (even going backwards at times) for two days, we worked ourselves down to about 2 days worth of fuel and a week or so left of variety in food (lots of dried food was still on board, but things would be dramatically less exciting after that… rehydrated beans and pasta or rice for lunch and dinner.  Cream of Wheat for breakfast.  Japan was the hugest let-down when it came to shopping for food supplies.  A lot of what we had on board last leg was leftover from our gigantic shop in Guam).  The problem with that is that there was little to no wind, we were making max 80 miles in a day and it would take us at least two weeks to hit Hawaii.  
Sarah and I enjoying a rare sunny time in the first half of the passage

Then, Skipper announced we were going to call in at Midway Atoll.  All along, I had dreamed of visiting Midway, but it was out of the question: as a US Military Base and being way south of our course line, it would never happen.  But, the military moved out nearly 10 years ago and all that is left on the island is a wildlife refuge.  And, we were already way south of our projected course because of the storm.  Skipper had contacted the island and told them we needed to fuel up and re-provision and could we please have permission to land.  Happily, they said yes and, amid much excitement on our part (and theirs too,  I think) we docked in Midway for two days.  Katie and I had a great time with Pong and JR, the chef on the Island and the logistics guy in charge of all the ordering, getting lots of food for the boat.  Everyone nearly died when they saw all the fresh stuff we loaded on board: it had been a few weeks since we’d had anything not dried or canned.

As I mentioned before, Midway Atoll is home to some 70-odd people and over 2 million birds.  If I thought the roosters in French Polynesia were annoying for crowing at all hours, they have nothing on 2 million albatross and assorted shearwaters, petrels, and terns.

Midway Atoll
Approaching Midway

Fields of Leycan Albatross

Albatross “getting to know each other”

White tern staring me down

 North Beach, one of the nicest beaches all offshore

Then, it was back to sea.  One more week until Oahu, and we all strove to make the best of it.  I will admit, it did not really feel like we were actually going to make it there until we could see the lights of Honolulu (a weird sight after 30+ days at sea!).


Life at Sea
One of the many stunning sunsets we get to see on a regular basis at sea.  There really is nothing like it.

Maddie and Simon goofing off in the stern.

Sarah and Diana (one of her sisters) hanging out on watch

Lowering the trysail, often a several-times-daily occurrence as we move between try and main to get the most out of the wind.

Sunrise over Honolulu

Ian steers us in

The whole, good-looking group poses while we wait for customs and immigration to clear us in.  I now have all of 3 pages left in my passport.  It doesn’t expire for 3 more years…

Jose, Adam, and Liam help Katie and I carry all of our groceries to the boat.  This was just a small part of our initial “holy cow we are at land and they have real grocery stores here” shop the afternoon we landed.

Once again, we had work days: three teams, rig, hull, and galley blitz the boat.  Rig tensions the rigging and greases the mast.  This leg they also sanded and oiled the spars (booms and gaffs).  Hull completely sands and repaints the hull.  We have at least 4 colours on the hull plus lettering).  Galley hangs out with Katie and I and we completely clean the inside of the boat as well as shop for food for the next leg and stow it all away in various hidey-holes while inventorying what we still have left.  Work days leave us fairly tired…

So, that brings us to now.  I had a few days here to hang out here.  I’ve visited  Saint Andrew’s a few times since arriving to get in my fix of eucharest. It has been a long time since anything other than boat church. On Sunday, Elske, Steve, and James came with me and then we hit up Safeway for an angel food cake, strawberries and whipped cream on the way home. A road-side feast ensued…





The security guard came out at one point, and we all thought we were busted, but it turns out he was bringing us napkins. We needed them.

In other news, I’ve been holding on to a secret since Osaka that Matt, Katie‘s boyfriend of 3 years was going to fly to Hawaii to surprise Katie.  My end of the surprise was planning stuff on the boat end to make sure that she would have the night off when he wanted to come out to the boat, that she wouldn’t book a hotel room for her days off, and all that.  What he didn’t say, but what I pretty much figured would happen was that he would propose while he was out here.  I didn’t think it would happen the first night, but it did.  So now Katie is engaged to be married some time in the fall.  Yay Katie!  Matt is still here, so she’s been too busy to update her blog with the story, but when she does, it will be a good read because its a great story… think secluded beach, picnic, and a shirtless man running down the beach with flowers… not to mention 11 months without having seen each other!
Friday our last group of trainees board for the sail home.  There are only about 10-12 new trainees, not much turn-over this leg.  The group staying on are all great fun and I’m looking forward to sailing another leg with them.  We’ll likely hit the San Juan Islands before coming up to the Gulf Islands but start looking for us around the beginning of June.  We’ll be trying to avoid being seen as long as possible!  See you June 14 in the Inner Harbour!

35 Days Later…

After the longest passage in SALTS history (and much longer than I thought it would be…!) we’ve finally arrived in Honolulu.  We arrived Sunday mid-morning and Katie and I promptly did a very, very, very large grocery shop.  We also opened lots of wonderful mail (thank you!!!) and enjoyed a fresh water “shower” from the hose on the dock.  

Yesterday, I went out and splurged on my newest electronic baby… a MacBook.  So now I’m in the process of setting it up and getting it going.  On the up side, I now have Internet access whenever I can find a free hotspot (there is one near the boat where I am now!) and so I can skype all the time with my smokin’ new computer.  Once I get the photos organized, I’ll post some up from this leg.  Hopefully I’ll be able to get a nice (short-ish) slideshow organized by the time I get home!

Somewhere in the Middle of No and Where

Two days ago, I was on the boat anticipating a long slog to Hawaii with little fuel left and decreasing selections of food to be had. Today, I am sitting in the “Empire Cafe” Internet Cafe on Midway Atoll at the very northern-most tip of the Hawaiian archipelego (although not a part of the state of Hawaii). Midway, you may know, was the site of an etremely important battle which turned the tide in the War in the Pacific in WWII. It has long been a midway in the Pacific stopping zone (hence the highly creative and origninal name of the island). Up until about 10 years ago, there was a huge military presence on the island. Now the only people who live here are scientists and people to maintain the infrastructure of the airport etc. Oh, and over 2 million birds. Midway is now a wildlife preserve and there are over 2 million albatross, not to mention the petrels, shearwaters, tropicbirds, terns, and goodness knows what else. You can’t move without tripping over an albatross chick. The ginormous, ugly creatures basically can’t move and sit there chirping loudly at you and smacking their beak in your general direction. Then there are the shearwater burrows which are everywhere so you can’t leave the road without the possibility of falling into a hole and breaking your ankle. All that being said, this is a pretty darn cool place to be! I never thought I would ever get to come here, and, in fact, we didn’t really plan too. It just happened… Albatross are pretty funny birds. On the beach they call them goonies, because they really are goons on land. So graceful on water, complete klutzes when it comes to walking. If you have ever seen “The Rescuers Down Under” (if you haven’t, it is a fine example of Disney so you should see it), then you have some idea of how albatross take off and land. When they are going for a take off, it is a running start with wings fully extended to their 6ft span, flapping and you hear “thwap, thwap, thwap, thwap” as they pelt down the road. After about 20ft, they are ready to take off. When landing, they come in, backing their wings like crazy. If they are lucky, their feet hit before their chest. Either way, they slide a foot or so on the chest before coming to a complete stop and standing up. It is quite a sight to behold.
So that is Midway Atoll. We’re here until tomorrow morning, and now I am off to enjoy the beach with sand and water the colour of everything we saw in the South Pacific.

And We`re Off…

All going well, we leave tomorrow for Hawaii – a 3 to 4 week passage. I`m hoping for the 3. I`ve engineered things with Katie that I will not be cooking tomorrow, instead I cooked yesterday and today. I thought it was time for a change and not cook the first day out for the 6th leg in a row. How I love getting seasick that early…! We found Costco today and managed to shop without a membership (actually, we bought a membership, shopped, then cancelled the membership once we were done. The condition is that we cannot get a membership in Japan again for a year. I don`t think that will be a problem). They didn`t really have a lot of the things we were hoping for. Apparently Japan doesn`t use bleach. Anyway, we did find some things that we were happy to get and I now have a ginormous box of animal crackers in my `stash.` Don`t anyone tell the little Anderson boys or I will never have a second of peace.
Right now, I am hanging out on the free Internet in the hotel (Universal Port Hotel) right beside the boat hoping that Dad and Colleen decide to come home from church early (I think its 10 am for them, 7pm for me) and I get to talk to them on skype before I leave. Tomorrow will probably be busy with garbage going, fuel and water coming, and clearing out in crazy Japanese style.
Our new group of trainees seem like a lot of fun. This is our biggest turnover of trainees since Hawaii between leg 1 and 2. Having that many trainees for whom this is their first ever Offshore experience adds a certain amount of excitement and anticipation, despite the long passage ahead. I`ve sailed with 2 or 3 of them before and know a few others (siblings of Sarah, my old roommate and our WO on the boat). We have lots of food on board, so now I`m just waiting to go. I`m kind of over Japan, as much fun as it has been. One last stop to the santo tonight for the last bit of clean before we hit the open ocean. There is a nice American guy who we`ve run into at the hotel here who is over from LA working on a new show that just opened up at Universal Studios. He`s let us use his room for showers a couple times (which has been heavenly). He just walked by me here in the lobby and was telling me about the crowdedness on the trains in Tokyo (I was telling him that half of Japan was at Costco today). Apparently his translator, a tiny 90lb (ish) woman has had ribs broken on the trains in Tokyo. It gets that crowded. Yay for height and basketball rebounding skills.
And now, back to Kyoto, I ended up getting a kimono at the flea market after all! I found a really nice one for relatively cheap and so now I have a kimono. Don`t know when I`ll wear it, but it sure is pretty!
So wish us fair wind and good seas so that we make good time and I don`t have to start rationing food. These guys seem like big eaters so far…! I`ll talk to you in Hawaii in about a month or so!

City of Shrines, Temples, and Kimonos

So tried on a kimono today at this shop in Kyoto that sells used kimonos. It was very nice, but I decided that spending $100 on something pretty that I would never ever wear was somewhat superfluous. I tried to justify it by thinking that I would use it as a bathrobe, but that’s an expensive bathrobe. So I do not have a kimono. I do, however, have way too many photos of temples and shrines and other very cool things here. Today was a national holiday because it is the first day of spring. Last night, all the temples in the area where I am staying (Higashiyama = Eastern Mountains, really close to Gion, the geisha district) were lit up and open late to celebrate. It would have been awesome if it wasn`t for the fact that it was literally pissing down rain. I have never gotten so wet in my life. My jeans and shoes were still soaked this morning despite using an entire newspaper to stuff then last night. My gigantic umbrella gave up from overuse and began to leak so I had to buy a new one this morning to stay dry.
Today, I hit up a bunch of temples and shrines, mostly Zen Buddhist ones, which was a nice change from the ornate and over-the-top Buddhism I am used to from China. One had a large raked rock and large stone garden which, apparently, is famous for it aesthetic nature or something like that. Two of them were world heritage sites. Because of the public holiday, you could get into temples etc free if you were wearing a kimono so there were women everywhere in beautiful ones. At one of the temples, I was pondering the garden and I hear a `Gillian…?!?` I turn around, and there is Leighsa, our watch leader this leg. Of all the people in Japan, what is the chance?? To make the world even smaller, she is staying at a hostel in town with an Australian Katie and I met last week in Osaka. Craziness.
And possibly very exciting was that today I saw MONKEYS! Thats right, I saw Japanese Snow Monkeys. These guys are the furthest north living monkeys that exist and they are ugly. But, they are monkeys and they do what monkeys do, including jump at you and hiss while you are taking a picture so that your picture ends up one big blurr because you are so freaked out by it. From the hill where they were, there was a great view of Kyoto. It was a good wander up there.
My 2 days of Kyoto adventuring is over tomorrow – I head back to Osaka after lunch to meet up with the rest of the crew. Thanks for the tips, Colleen, we can compare notes when I get home and you can see how much has changed in 25 years!!

Hiroshima, Osaka, Kyoto… where did Leg 5 go?!?

Here I am sitting in Universal Port Hotel at Universal Studios Japan, using their free Internet. How did I get here?? The boat is docked just outside the hotel, meaning we get to hear the wonderful theme music day in and day out. The downside of this location is that we are pretty much in the middle of nowhere Osaka, but that is the price to pay for celebrity status I suppose. I`m getting pretty good at figuring out the train system here – I`ve even got optimum places on the platform to stand cased so that I get on and off the train in the right spot to make my transfer or leave the station. I know, I`m a geek.
Leg 5 is over in 2 days. Most of last week was spent grocery shopping and stowing quantities of food not seen since the dock in Victoria. This time, however, we couldn`t fit all the produce in the bunk… mind you, we had to change produce and can bunks around because of a starboard list, so the produce bunk is now half the size it used to be. Where were you, Jen, when we needed you! We now have some cans in the galley bilge, which will make some food prep easier – we won`t have to transport them half the length of the boat in heavy seas.
Backtracking to Hiroshima: visiting the A-bomb dome and Peace Park was a moving experience. I felt much the same there that I did at a concentration camp in Germany: horror at the destruction that humanity is capable of at the hands of a few people, but here there was hope. Hiroshima is at the centre of an international campaign to rid the world of nukes. Everytime a country tests a nuclear weapon, they send a telegram of protest, even today. It was quite impressive. Hiroshima was a pretty city with the nicest onsen we`ve visited yet (I`ve been to three now). I took the ferry out to Miyajima one day, an island in the bay near Hiroshima which is covered with shrines and temples. It has the large Torii (Shinto Shrine Gate) that seemingly floats in the water when the tide is up – it is apparently the third most photographed thing in Japan, so you`ve probably seen it before. When I get my photos up, you will see it, from every angle!
Osaka is fairly boring as far as culture goes. Its main purpose seems to be shopping, something it does with style. That and Universal Studios. It does have a sweet castle which Sarah L and I visited yesterday. The cherry blossoms are in full force right now and everyone (and their micro dog, all of which were dressed up in shirts and pants or skirts and bows, some with shoes… its slightly creepy the amount of clothes they put on dogs here) in town was there I think.
Today is more grocery shopping for the stuff we couldn`t get from the wholesaler and then, I hope we will be done. Leg end dinner/desert night is tomorrow and we have yet to plan that too…

Here to there and a bit of everywhere

Well, I`m back in Japan… Hiroshima of all places, to be exact. We arrived yesterday afternoon after a relatively flat passage from Shanghai. Which, is probably where I need to start because, well, its been awhile. I pretty much avoided Internet in China because of censorship (yay for not being able to get to my favourite news sites or anyone`s blog) and because net cafes there are smokier than a European bar if you know what I mean.

So… we left Okinawa on Valentines Day and, strangely enough, I was cooking. We arrived into Shanghai 4 days later after having everything go wrong (stove didn`t work one day, broke the thing holding one of the forestays up another which could have cost us a mast or two if the weather had been rougher, and broke the hydraulic line the night before arriving in Shanghai meaning our wonderful trainees and crew were up all night winching the anchor up by hand. I woke up and turned on the stove and made hot chocolate. Katie slept through the whole thing: she`s a good sleeper.) and sailed up the Yangtze River. It was grey, and dirty, and cold…

Ilya, Chris, Kara, Rachael, Sarah, and Elske cuddle to keep warm… we all look so spiffy in our crew uniforms which we have to wear arriving in any port. Now all we need are crew issue parkas, toques, and mittens for the next time we have such cold legs on Offshore!

Our poor pilot was freezing… I think he`s used to bigger boats with heated bridges.

Speaking of bridges, we passed under a cool bridge…

And suddenly, there was the skyline we had heard all about and were waiting to see…

The requisite Chinese men were there to stare at us as we came in. Apparently we look strange or something. You`d have thought they had never seen a tall ship crewed by white people before. Oh wait… we are a bit of a novelty everywhere we go. One gets used to a cool boat when it is your home!

And the local newspaper was there to take pictures (the photo is by Mr. Lu)

Then, we discovered that we had a sweet view from where we were docked.

By day…

…and by night… (yes, I was standing on deck when I took this one!)

I spent the day wandering around the area near the boat, saw narrow roads that reminded me more of China than the towering skyline of Pudong we could see from the boat.

I found the requisite markets, complete with animals, alive or dead. Unfortunately the alive ones (chickens, roosters, and ducks in this case) were crammed into ridiculously small cages)
And I also found a small Buddhist temple really close to the boat. I was the only white person, the only `tourist` there really. It was two days before lantern festival, the last day of spring festival or Chinese New Year, so the place was all decked out still and there were lots of people working their way around praying to all the various Buddhas. The smell of incense was, at times, overpowering, and its smoke filled the entire courtyard.
That night, I left to Beijing, the adventures of which the first 36hours or so were recounted for the log and posted here last.
So, the photos must follow…

The Train…
Picture 1: From the top bunk looking down, waaaay down. (Susan`s hand on top of Jose`s face, Antony and Sarah Luty bottom bunk left, Sarah Brizan in the green bandana…)
Picture 2: The corridor

Beijing… ICE!The Forbidden CityTienanmen Square
The amazingness of the night market…!


And, the Peking Opera!

Then it was off to the Great Wall for us! The four of us took a day package through our hostel that drove us up to Jingshanling section of the wall where we hiked roughly 10km along the wall to the Simatai section. Can I just say amazing! Probably the best wall I`ve done yet (and I`ve now been to 4 sections of the wall). About a third of the way in, the restored section ended and all of a sudden we found ourselves walking along a wall with no side walls and half the steps missing. It was a bit sketchy at times, but so dramatic. The wall is literally perched on mountain tops all along and in some places, the drop is almost straight down at least a couple hundred feet. Some of the classic shots you see of the Great Wall I am convinced come from here: we could see it snaking along the hills for miles.

(no kidding, eh? Some what was being cheeky!)




Then it was back home that night, Lantern Festival (after a quick stop at the night market once again!) for Sarah B and I. This time we were in the pure luxury of the soft sleeper compartment!


The post Beijing exploring of Shanghai will have to come at a later date. I`ve spent two hours on this already!

I do need to send out some big thank yous for mail: Thanks Jen, Lynne, and Nancy for the card in Shanghai, also Dad and Colleen for the package and Nancy for the letter. The newspaper clipping are being cycled through being posted on the crew head door as our sitting reading material. Now that its cooler, we don`t mind spending time in the head, its a little cooler now! Thanks to Bev for the card and to Jen for the letter and clippings as well. In Hiroshima, thanks to Nancy and Remi for letters and cards and clippings so far! The bodyless feet article is currently in the head…! Jen, Kelsey, and Adam, holy cow that was an amazing package and to whom do I owe the thanks for the stunning (and oh so becoming) yellow pants?!? Tav, the chocolate and mangos in the package to the crew were inspired genius.

Beijing!?!

Yay! We made it to Shanghai two days ago and now, all of a sudden, I find myself in Beijing! Crazy to be back here, seeing some of the same stuff I saw a year and a half ago but with different people and in a very different time of year (there is ice on the canals in the Forbidden City!). Still lots of fun. Bo asked that I send in some stuff for the SALTS log about what we’re up to so there is something else to put in other than the same ramblings around Shanghai that have been happening the last 2 days… so I figured I’d put it all up here. I don’t know if she’s going to use the whole thing, but if not, here it is in its entirety. (Saves me from having to be creative twice…!)

After some confusion as to which Shanghai Railway station we were to be at last night (lacking as we do the critical skill of reading Chinese) and following entertaining metro and taxi rides, Sarah B, Sarah L, Susan, Greg, and I arrived at our train with about 5 min to spare. Sarah, Sarah, Susan, and I were sharing a 6 bed cabin with Antony and Jose, who were already quite comfortable on the lower bunks when we arrived. We chose to travel by “hard sleeper” which means that the train cars have a long, narrow corridor down one side with small “cabins” (with no doors) off of it. Each cabin has 6 bunks – 3 on each side. I ended up on a top bunk which was just above the top of my head when standing on the floor (about 6 ft up!). The bottom bunks are the only ones with enough head room to sit up on, meaning that head space in the middle and top bunks is practically non-existent. In fact, if I removed my head, the height probably would have been perfect. Climbing up to a top bunk is also a tricky prospect which is best done with lots of caution. Fortunately, we are sailors and have a lot of experience in navigating sticky situations while moving in all possible directions. At the end of each train car is a hot water tap for instant noodles (with the warning “Be careful to scald” in unfortunate Chinglish written above the tap) as well as two toilets of the squatting variety. Jose learned the hard way that one should always wear shoes when using the head on a train. Oh, and toilets in China are all BYO TP, trains included… which means we are all carrying around packages of Kleenex in our pockets. After breakfast of “jidan chaomien” – egg fried noodles – which I got from one of the carts roaming up and down the aisle, we packed our bags for our arrival of 9:40 am. Saying goodbye to Antony and Jose, the four girls headed out to the hostel we booked just minutes away from the Forbidden City. Our walk to the hostel took us down a shopping street I remembered from last time I was here a year and a half ago, it is fun to see things and remember where I am. Our hostel is situated in one of Beijing’s hutong, neighborhoods of narrow stone alleyways and low stone/wood houses (which are typically little more than one room with a dirt floor). Sarah B and I both agree that it is one of the nicest hostels we have ever stayed at, and its location makes it even more quaint. After checking in, we walked over to the Forbidden City, where the emperors used to live in the Ming and Qing Dynasties (1300’s-early 1900’s). It is called “forbidden” because no one except people the emperor allowed to enter could. The Forbidden City is one of the largest palace complexes in the world and it stunningly gorgeous. The buildings are vivid red with golden roofs and intricately carved wood work painted with gold and brilliant shades of blue and green. It is a series of sections inside of each other getting progressively smaller, until you end up in the Imperial Garden where the Emperor and Empress lived in a palace. From the Forbidden City, we walked down to Tienanmen Square, the largest square in the world. It was crazy to think of the history of that square and to realize we were standing in it. People were flying kites and others were trying to sell us random souvenirs we didn’t want or need. Many we looking around and taking pictures like we were. A square like that is such an anomaly in China where everything is packed in on top of everything else. It was like a breath of air in the middle of the city, but not because it of the history. We ran into Chase, Raven, Chris, and Sean on our way back to the hostel and their group did much the same thing as us today, they are having lots of fun. On our way back to the hostel, we stopped at the night market for dinner. The night market is where food vendors line up along the street with food and cook it in front of you. We saw everything from sea urchins, squid, and starfish on skewers, candied fruit, dumplings and steamed buns, noodles… We mostly opted for the tamer items for dinner. Our evening entertainment tonight brought us to the Peking Opera, known more for its martial arts, acrobatics, and colourful costumes than its acting or singing… It was very entertaining and lots of fun. There were two short story lines playing tonight; one about a “white snake” guard assigned to protect an important general and the other about a sneaky soldier who steals silver for the poor from a corrupt official. It was lots of fun. Now we are all back at the hostel, taking turns through the shower, our first since Okinawa, and I think it is my turn…!

Greetings from… Okinawa… Bah.

So… two guesses where I am right now.
Yes, that is right. I am STILL in Okinawa… oh Okinawa, how I love you but am getting very very tired of you.
Staying today has meant that today I have been able to find flour which is not readily available in the supermarkets. It is like a return to Tahiti though, where all the packages are no bigger than 1kg. Being here today also means I was able to call my uncle Gord for his birthday, except it was just after midnight on his birthday and he was already in bed so I talked to my aunt Bev for awhile instead. In my defence, they were logged in to Skype, so I did not wake people up to call! And I tried Gord, I tried! 🙂
Today is a strange mix of weather – hot and sunny one minute, cold and raining the next. I:m wandering around with my sunglasses in one hand and my umbrella in the other. I feel like I have done everything that needs to be done in Okinawa. I can pretty much find my way around the town, I:ve downloaded learning Japanese podcasts and have added words like `please,` `I am sorry,` and `I don`t understand` to my vocabulary. Oh, and `Do you sell flour,` vital to my shopping success today. Actually, I found the flour all by myself, but when I go back to buy it later (I didn`t want to cart it around with me for the whole day, so I scouted this morning and will go back and buy later) I will confirm it is flour. Perhaps I will attempt to write down the characters to see if it matches. I have discovered all sorts of ingenious ways to do things without having to know Japanese, and I have expanded my character vocabulary as well. I have no idea what the word is for many of them, but I know what they mean. I will be an asian language machine by the time I get home… okay, wishful thinking, but here`s to hoping!
Well the weather is supposed to be coming back down, although we were hoping to be able to leave today, so maybe tomorrow? I`ve only been saying that for 8 days now though.