Lest We Forget III: The Holocaust

By all accounts, the Holocaust was one of the worst tragedies in human history.  The fact that similar things have happened since and, indeed, still happen, should not and does not lessen its tragedy.  It makes a person wonder if mankind will ever learn from our mistakes.
In Berlin, this monument covers nearly a city block.  While uniformly level at the top, some of the blocks are probably 8ft high.  It is possible to walk down the corridors between them.  It is an unusual monument and if it were not for Natalie, my friend and Euro-travel buddy, telling me it what it was, I likely would not have known.  There are no inscriptions on the blocks, as far as I could see.  Just large blocks of concrete.  Yet it is a memorial to the Holocaust.  Perhaps in memory of the thousands of nameless people who were killed.

One of the things I wanted to do in Europe was visit a concentration camp.  It is something, given the opportunity, that everyone should do at some point in their life.  Perhaps if we experience it, the reality becomes more impressed upon our souls and conscience and we are more likely to speak out in the future?  One can only hope.
I visited Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp, just a short train ride north of Berlin.  It was the model upon which other camps were based.  Sachsenhausen was a model of killing perfection.  It was set up so one guard in the tower with a machine gun could scan all rows between barracks and mow down everyone he saw.


The inscription on the gate says “Work will set you free.”  Literally, I suppose that meant that by death in the camp, you were free of the horrors of being there.


After the Germans left the camp, the Soviets actually took over operation and continued using it for similar purposes with their own prisoners.  This monument was a Soviet era piece.

The wall around the camp had a “Neutrale Zone” where you were killed upon entering (hence the skull and crossbones).  If that didn’t happen in time, the electric fence would probably stop you.


The Jewish prisoners had their own separate barracks.  A few years before I was there, some neo-nazis set fire to the Jewish section.  I guess they thought it sent a message of some kind.  Instead, there were a lot of people who funded the restoration of it.  These bunks remind me of Schindler’s List.

While I usually don’t go in for crazy stories of the supernatural etc., I did find it interesting that throughout my time in the camp, I had a headache that kept on getting worse and worse… until I stepped out of the gate to leave.  It totally disappeared.

Lest We Forget II: Pearl Harbor

Some consider the bombing of Pearl Harbor, Honolulu on December 7, 1941 to be a major turning point in the war because it brought the Americans into World War II. That FDR, the then President, had been maneuvering for a few years to get the American public to agree to go to war is often overlooked. At any rate, the attack on Pearl Harbor was devastating in the number of lives that were lost.

Japanese planes came, without much advance warning, and devastated the American fleet stationed in Pearl Harbor.  Many lives were lost including over a thousand on the USS Arizona.  When in Honolulu on Offshore, I took time to visit the Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbor (along with hundreds of others that day – there were long line ups to get in).  It was a moving, if not slightly America-centred, experience.
A bridge-like structure has been built over the wreck of the USS Arizona for visitors to walk on.  It is quiet inside, almost eerily, given that nearly 200 people are inside at any given time.  At one end is a list of all the names of those who perished when the Arizona went down.  It is slightly strange to look down at the wreck – the entire thing is just sitting on the bottom of the harbor as it fell – knowing that it is a tomb to so many young men (over 1000 were on board when it went down).

All around the edge of the harbor where the battleships were tied up, are these white markers.  They were, in fact, what each ship was tied to.  The name of each is written on it, two boats per marker.  All that remains of some of these boats is this name.



Sometimes called the tears of the Arizona, oil still floats away from the wreck on a daily basis.  Often, as is the case here, accompanied by the petals of flowers a rememberer has tossed into the water.

Lest We Forget I: Normandy

Over the last number of years, I’ve been had the honour of visiting various sites around the world with significance in World Wars I and II. Today is a week until November 11th, Remembrance or Armistice Day. In the lead up, I want to highlight some of those sites and the events that happened there.

To begin, the end of the war in Europe.  Bayeux is a small town in Normandy.  All the streets are stone and very narrow.  In fact, this is what saved the medieval town from destruction during the war: the tanks could not fit through the streets and so the liberating armies went around it.  Bayeux is perhaps the closest town to the D-Day beaches in Normandy, and the first town the armies would have encountered after leaving the beaches (it is also the town William the Conqueror left from on his conquest of England in 1066).  It was the base for my explorations of Normandy two years ago (original post here).
Bayeux is a small town but is home to a mammoth cathedral.  My aunt’s father was a medical officer with the Canadian Army in 1944 and came through here.  Strangely enough, when I was showing some of my photos to my aunt, she found one nearly identical of the cathedral that her father had taken 60 years earlier. 
Inside the cathedral are memorials to the members of the various armies who liberated Bayeux.
Arromanches Beach was first taken by the British and then used as a supply base.  Some of the floats used to create a breakwater around the beach can still be seen.
Juno Beach, where the Canadian Army landed.  On the 50th anniversary of D-Day, some good friends from Ontario (my “adopted” grandparents) came back with a group of veterans to visit this beach.  They brought me home a rock.  Cheesy as it sounds, when I visited Juno beach in 2006, the 62nd anniversary and 12 years after my friends did, I picked up another.  Its hard to imagine scores of boats and tanks once lined the beach here.  Perhaps some are still visible, but the tide was up.  All that remains are a few battered bunkers that presumably the German army returned fire from.
The Canadian cemetery in Normandy.  It is in the middle of farmer’s fields and can see the ocean.  Its not too big, but big enough considering what it contains.  It is always moving to visit war cemeteries overseas and see the love and care that locals give to maintaining them.

Something’s Missing

This week has been a busy week of getting the boats ready for the winter.  Along with the normal things we do every year like take all the food off and give away what will not keep until next year, take all the mattresses, deck boxes, dories, life jackets etc off the boat, unlash all the sails and remove them and the booms/gaffs, and clean the boat really really well, this year we took a couple extra things off.  Those couple extra things weighing upwards of 5 tonnes…
Ladies and gentlemen, introducing the barge Pacific Grace.
That’s right.  The Grace no longer has any masts.  It looks fairly strange to see her completely mast-less.  On Tuesday, the main came out.  It took the crane 14 tonnes of force to lift it out of its hole.  Today, the fore came out and it took 9 tonnes of force.  It is the strangest thing to see these mammoth sticks dangling in the air above the boat.  

When laid out in the lot, they take nearly the entire length of the parking area.  
We had some interesting maneuvering with two fork-lifts to get them out of the parking lot, around the corner into shop.  
In the shop, the main takes up over 3/4 of the length of it.  Tomorrow will be strange when we go for fuel under the Johnson St Bridge without having to raise it up.
Incidentally, tomorrow is also my last day working for SALTS.  Its been a fantastic last two years full of great relationships and wonderful experiences.  I wouldn’t trade it for the world.  At the same time, I’m looking forward to some rest.  While I will be out pounding the pavement looking for a new job first thing Monday morning (well, maybe not first thing!), I anticipate some well-deserved break time.  You can pray for me as I’m looking for work.  I think I’ve gotten a little picky, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing, but it means I have to be careful not to turn my nose up at perfectly good jobs.

Changing Seasons


And just like that, as quickly as the leaves are changing colours here in Victoria, the fall sailing season is over.  That’s it; no more cooking for me.  It is kind of strange to think about really.  All I’ve done for the last two years is cook on a sailboat.  Now I’m done.  Two weeks of shipyard and then I’m really done and unemployed.

Its been a fantastic last two years, I’ve throughly enjoyed my time on the boat: the people I’ve met, the people I’ve worked with, and the places I’ve been very fortunate to travel to both at home and abroad.  Soon I’ll be on to the next chapter.

Katie’s Married!

This weekend, the entire offshore crew trekked over to the mainland for the wedding of Katie and Matt.  It was a great ceremony full of intimate moments and hearty laughs.  The bubble-boy and ring bearer (youngest two of Skipper’s kids) did a fantastic job as well!

The reception afterwards was lots of fun.  I enjoy wedding receptions where I know lots of people and those people are as crazy as the people I work with.  Pretty much nothing phases us anymore and we have no problem making fools of ourselves…  This is evidenced in our offshore tradition of re-writing famous songs in our songbook for special events on the boat, thus far, that has been pretty exclusively birthdays.  We decided to make an exception, and did a one-time only performance of a song we wrote for the wedding.  Antony, Sarah, Tony and I wrote it in about half an hour on Thursday after breakfast.  Karen suggested some changes then away we went.  We had two guitars and were supposed to have a kazoo but it missed its ride to the ferry (aka was forgotten).
The lyrics, below, are to the tune “I Will Survive”…
At first she was afraid, she was petrified,
Didn’t know how long she could go on and still survive.
She spent oh so many nights just dreaming of his face,
Because it was embroidered on her pillow case.
She took the year, let herself go
It’s the only time she could and Matt wouldn’t know.
She never shaved her legs and she tooted in the night,
Her hair was left unwashed and her clothes were getting tight.
Go on now go, sail out to sea,
Don’t turn around now, don’t you worry about me.
Weren’t you the one who softly said goodbye,
My name is Matt, I am a man and I don’t cry.
Oh no not I, I’ll grow my hair.
As long as I don’t cut it, your touch will still be there.
I’ve got only one year to last so I hope it goes real fast,
But I’ll survive, I will survive, hey hey hey…
(Drum and Kazoo duet…)

It took all the strength she had not to fall apart,
She journalled every day to you right from the start.
Matt you should know that you were really missed,
She brushed her teeth, just waiting for your kiss.
I must admit, I’m feeling blue,
I am so far away but still in love with you.
I was dreaming you’d drop in, just to visit me
Cause I’m saving all my loving for the one who’s loving me
And then you came, to Hawaii
With no shirt and a scooter down upon one knee.
You were the one that I wanted for all time
I could hardly wait, and now tonight you’re mine
And that’s the start, they will survive,
As long as they know how to love we know they’ll stay alive
They’ve got all their lives to live and all their love to give,
They will survive, they will survive, Amen.
And now for the requisite photo accompaniments:
The mildly offside, but oh so Katie, cake topper

George walking Katie up the aisle.

Katie and Matt

The cooks…

And the girls

Who are we to decide?

That was one of the the big questions Gen. Romeo Dallaire challenged us with last night at the Child Soldier Initiative Benefit Concert.  I originally found out about it because Bruce Cockburn was playing and when I saw the General was also speaking, I thought it would be something interesting to attend.

The evening was at once deeply disturbing and moving and thought-provoking.  General Dallaire began by speaking about the use of children as soldiers: explaining its origin (Mozambique in the 80s), how it is perpetrated, and the dangers it presents to all of us.  He was condemning of the apathy of the world and how self-serving out interests are.  We think, if there is nothing in it for me, why should I step in?  Why should I become involved in a conflict that will most likely result in loss of life of people in my country and be potentially damaging to my political career if I will get nothing out of it?  His question in response was Who are we to decide?  To decide who to help and who to abandon?  To decide who is human and who is not?  We cannot and should not presume to do so.

Bruce Cockburn’s set of songs included a number of favourites and many discussed social issues.  He shared stories of how they came to be and why he wrote them.  His lyrics, as always, are profoundly moving and his imagery stimulates thought.  He is an amazing guitar player.  You realize it on his recordings, but to see him live is something else.  Things I has assumed were two guitars he does all at once on one guitar.  And he only used a 12-string once.  Crazy.  There is something special, even magical,  about seeing an artist perform their work in benefit of a cause they feel passionately for.

One of the best parts of the evening was when the two of them were on stage together.  Bruce was playing some instrumental on his guitar while Gen. Dallaire shared stories and impressions of Rwanda.  The combination was stirring and you could feel the passion in his voice as he challenged inaction with action.

I was glad of my 20 min walk home from the university last night.  After a day of strong winds and rain, the night sky was clear and the stars were able to shine brightly through.  There is a park just down the road that I walked through, stopping for awhile in the middle to gaze up and admire the majesty of the heavens and think.  Hearing Gen. Dallaire talk about his experiences in Rwanda and challenge the world to do something is one thing; actually acting and attempting to affect a change is something else.  The task seems as daunting and makes one feel as small as one does when looking at the vast expanse of the night sky.  It brings to mind the psalm:

When I consider your heavens, the work of your fingers, the moon and the stars, which you have sent in place, what is man that you are mindful of him, the son of man that you care for him?

Yet, even in this vast expanse, He is mindful of us.  Is it not time that we are mindful of each other?