Here to there and a bit of everywhere

Well, I`m back in Japan… Hiroshima of all places, to be exact. We arrived yesterday afternoon after a relatively flat passage from Shanghai. Which, is probably where I need to start because, well, its been awhile. I pretty much avoided Internet in China because of censorship (yay for not being able to get to my favourite news sites or anyone`s blog) and because net cafes there are smokier than a European bar if you know what I mean.

So… we left Okinawa on Valentines Day and, strangely enough, I was cooking. We arrived into Shanghai 4 days later after having everything go wrong (stove didn`t work one day, broke the thing holding one of the forestays up another which could have cost us a mast or two if the weather had been rougher, and broke the hydraulic line the night before arriving in Shanghai meaning our wonderful trainees and crew were up all night winching the anchor up by hand. I woke up and turned on the stove and made hot chocolate. Katie slept through the whole thing: she`s a good sleeper.) and sailed up the Yangtze River. It was grey, and dirty, and cold…

Ilya, Chris, Kara, Rachael, Sarah, and Elske cuddle to keep warm… we all look so spiffy in our crew uniforms which we have to wear arriving in any port. Now all we need are crew issue parkas, toques, and mittens for the next time we have such cold legs on Offshore!

Our poor pilot was freezing… I think he`s used to bigger boats with heated bridges.

Speaking of bridges, we passed under a cool bridge…

And suddenly, there was the skyline we had heard all about and were waiting to see…

The requisite Chinese men were there to stare at us as we came in. Apparently we look strange or something. You`d have thought they had never seen a tall ship crewed by white people before. Oh wait… we are a bit of a novelty everywhere we go. One gets used to a cool boat when it is your home!

And the local newspaper was there to take pictures (the photo is by Mr. Lu)

Then, we discovered that we had a sweet view from where we were docked.

By day…

…and by night… (yes, I was standing on deck when I took this one!)

I spent the day wandering around the area near the boat, saw narrow roads that reminded me more of China than the towering skyline of Pudong we could see from the boat.

I found the requisite markets, complete with animals, alive or dead. Unfortunately the alive ones (chickens, roosters, and ducks in this case) were crammed into ridiculously small cages)
And I also found a small Buddhist temple really close to the boat. I was the only white person, the only `tourist` there really. It was two days before lantern festival, the last day of spring festival or Chinese New Year, so the place was all decked out still and there were lots of people working their way around praying to all the various Buddhas. The smell of incense was, at times, overpowering, and its smoke filled the entire courtyard.
That night, I left to Beijing, the adventures of which the first 36hours or so were recounted for the log and posted here last.
So, the photos must follow…

The Train…
Picture 1: From the top bunk looking down, waaaay down. (Susan`s hand on top of Jose`s face, Antony and Sarah Luty bottom bunk left, Sarah Brizan in the green bandana…)
Picture 2: The corridor

Beijing… ICE!The Forbidden CityTienanmen Square
The amazingness of the night market…!


And, the Peking Opera!

Then it was off to the Great Wall for us! The four of us took a day package through our hostel that drove us up to Jingshanling section of the wall where we hiked roughly 10km along the wall to the Simatai section. Can I just say amazing! Probably the best wall I`ve done yet (and I`ve now been to 4 sections of the wall). About a third of the way in, the restored section ended and all of a sudden we found ourselves walking along a wall with no side walls and half the steps missing. It was a bit sketchy at times, but so dramatic. The wall is literally perched on mountain tops all along and in some places, the drop is almost straight down at least a couple hundred feet. Some of the classic shots you see of the Great Wall I am convinced come from here: we could see it snaking along the hills for miles.

(no kidding, eh? Some what was being cheeky!)




Then it was back home that night, Lantern Festival (after a quick stop at the night market once again!) for Sarah B and I. This time we were in the pure luxury of the soft sleeper compartment!


The post Beijing exploring of Shanghai will have to come at a later date. I`ve spent two hours on this already!

I do need to send out some big thank yous for mail: Thanks Jen, Lynne, and Nancy for the card in Shanghai, also Dad and Colleen for the package and Nancy for the letter. The newspaper clipping are being cycled through being posted on the crew head door as our sitting reading material. Now that its cooler, we don`t mind spending time in the head, its a little cooler now! Thanks to Bev for the card and to Jen for the letter and clippings as well. In Hiroshima, thanks to Nancy and Remi for letters and cards and clippings so far! The bodyless feet article is currently in the head…! Jen, Kelsey, and Adam, holy cow that was an amazing package and to whom do I owe the thanks for the stunning (and oh so becoming) yellow pants?!? Tav, the chocolate and mangos in the package to the crew were inspired genius.

Not to be repetitive…

Good thing we didn`t go anywhere yesterday – crew on the cruise ship told us that waves were up to the break on the bow – that is 5 stories up, at least as high as the yard on our foremast. If we would have still had a foremast in 11m seas, which is what is forecast at the moment. Looks like Tuesday is the earliest we`ll get out. I would like to get to Shanghai sometime before we have to leave though!

Calm the Seas!

EDIT: Feb 9, I`ve added one more ash tray at the bottom that I just found!

Bowing to popular pressure, I have taken a self-portrait showing the fauxhawk. Keep in mind that this was moments after soaking myself in the gloriousness that is the bath house and having a through scrub down so my hair is doing its thing based soley on the quality of the cut and a blow dryer at the baths. Now with proper gel, it would not be nearly as fuzzy… but I won`t get to shower again for a couple days so there is no way I`m grossing up my hair with gel.

Anyway, on to more pressing business, we are still stranded in Okinawa, the seas are back up to about 4 m and we are desperately hoping to leave today, only 4 days behind schedule. If you could remember us in your prayers, that the seas will calm down enough for us to go out and not risk hurting us and the boat, that would be lovely. Okinawa is great, but it is starting to get a little old and Shanghai is beckoning!

And now I leave you with one final thing from Okinawa: I am calling it the `Ash Tray Series.` These are pictures off of the little metal ash tray things that you see outside of malls etc at home. They are all over the side of the street here and are too funny for words. I particularily enjoy the stalker and the random helicopter. Although the 200C fire is pretty good too!






Waiting out the Weather

(Me in the Internet cafe… hat is hiding the sweet fauxhawk I got in Guam. The girl was super excited to cut one because `No one in Guam will let me`)

So here we are, still in Okinawa. Yesterday we were supposed to leave, which would have made me happy because I was not cooking and I have cooked every first day out so far this leg (and perhaps 80% of this offshore). But, there was a low all around us, so we didn:t leave. It decided to pour down rain all day instead. Katie and I did groceries in the morning and then I pretty much slept the rest of the day. Yes, we did have pancakes for Shrove Tuesday! I walked to the Internet last night and was soaked through 2 layers of pants before I even got off the pier. It was that bad. I really should have worn my foulie bottoms because my top was perfectly dry. So we were going to leave this morning, but then Skipper checked the weather and its blowing in the East China Sea – like 40 ft seas. So once again, we:ve decided to stay put another day, which makes me happy because I am cooking today, not tomorrow when we leave. Plus I am at the Internet and attempted to put on some of my movies onto my iPod. One of the guys on the boat put the tv series Firefly on, which is great!
My goal for this afternoon is to find a cheap watch to tide me over until I can get mine fixed and some mittens. I just brought gloves with me, forgetting that I love woollen mittens ever so much better. Then I:m back to the boat to see how many people I:m cooking for tonight (trainees sign up when we are at port so I don:t cook for 40 if 20 peole decide to go out for dinner) and cook dinner. Tonight, we may do an Ash Wednesday service, Jordan and I spent some time last night preparing for it.

From Neon to Public Bath Houses to Anime Characters to Castles and Dancing

Wow, Okinawa. Guam was nothing of a culture shock compared to here. The neon, the crazy Japanese-ness, the language… its fairly overwhelming. I keep wanting to speak Chinese because I know more than I do in Japanese (3 words), and my brain keeps thinking that I`m in Asia, therefore I should be able to speak Chinese. Right?!?
A major highlight has been finding the public bathhouse. Yes, that is right, a place where you get naked and walk around to various jet pools, showers, saunas, and salt exfoliating rooms (men and women separate!). For a bunch of shower-deprived sailors, it is heaven. Seriously, I can pay $10 and sit as long as I want there. I plan on going back tonight… Once you get over the initial awkwardness, it is quite fun. One of the trainees I was there with ended up having her back scrubbed down by an elderly Japanese lady. It was quite funny.
Here are some of the sights of Okinawa:

Neon, neon, and more neon…
Tall buildings?!? What are those?
The monorail we took yesterday to get to the castle. Public transport like this is such a joy and novelty for us!
They like pigs here. And they like plywood cutouts. So does Elske.
And the English translations are always a source of much humour!

Shurijo Castle, built 1500s (ish) for a dynasty that paid tribute to China – traditionally Okinawa is much closer to China than Japan. Much of the architecture is Chinese, though not as ornate as the Forbidden City.


It was raining… I now own an umbrella.


We happened upon live traditional dancing while we were there. They only do a few performances a week and only one of those includes live music (men playing three stringed instruments of an unidentified name) – and we managed to get there for it without even trying!




Thats it for Okinawa. We`re off to Shanghai tomorrow… next stop, Chinese New Year!

Some Christmas Photos

I`ve hooked up my camera to the computer here finally to get the photos off of my memory card. These are from Christmas, at the end of last leg!
Someone gets a little cheeky on the galley whiteboard… How true it is though!
Our stockings are hung by the chimney, I mean from the fore gybing tackle, with care!
The crew all gather by our sad looking betelnut christmas tree.Some of the Christmas presants made onboard:
A picture frame for Bonice from Jose, complete with one of his photos (of her)

Katie opening her box from Andrew

Noah with the slingshot I made him.

On to boxing day watersports fun…

Port watch tries to impress the judges with their costumes…

Susan goes for style points on the rope swing by holding their mascot, an onion, in her mouth

Matt hangs on for dear life on the surfboard pull

Port watch makes a final lap of the boat in the dory race

Leg 4 in Photos…

Duke of Yorks, PNG


Kavieng, PNG after doing groceries
The Volcano in Rabaul. I climbed to the top!
Munda, Solomons
Munda
Ambrym, Vanuatu – black sand beaches
Tamtam – slit drum used for communication – on Ambrym
The kids on Ambrym
Diamond Narrows, Solomon Islands
Gizo, Solomons, Kennedy Island in the background (the small one) where JFK was shipwrecked in WW2

Gizo Market
Gizo Harbour
Waya Island, Yasawa Group, Fiji

Waya

A kid on the beach with our dory
The marlin…
Scott with the marlin we caught.

Pictures?!?

Never fear, pictures are here!! These are going back in time from Samoa to Tahiti on Leg 3. I ran out of time so there is no Tonga or Fiji for now. Although you can see Fiji pictures from Dads visit on his site… 🙂

Robert Louis Stevenson’s house in Independant Samoa

Bob the Mayor on Palmerston

My Palmerston Island Family – Leslie with Sidney, Robyn, Inano, Katie, Chase with Ned, Julianna, Jamie with Caroline, Me, Metua

Antony and I entertain the Palmerston Islanders

The boys do their dance on Palmerston
And the girls do ours

Little Caroline

Bora Bora

THAT day in Rarotonga…

…and all the groceries Katie and I bought the next day in Raro with the help of Bill Marsters

Jamie, Robyn and I biking around Aitutaki, Cook Islands

Survivor Cook Islands was here, or, rather on those two little motus

Rowing ashore in the dories

Me up the mast in Bora Bora.

Bora Bora…

Bora Bora…

Bora Bora pearl farm

Sunset over the boat in Moorea

Me and the blue…

A motu off of Raiatea

Black pearl farm on Tahaa

Sunrise in Moorea, French Polynesia, our first stop out on Leg 3
Moorea lagoon from our epic hike up the ridge

Tav doing what Tav does best…

(L-R) Chase, Me, Tav, Matt, and Elske on our hike up Moorea

Rewards for our labour afterwards at the Moorea Rotui juice factory