Here to there and a bit of everywhere

Well, I`m back in Japan… Hiroshima of all places, to be exact. We arrived yesterday afternoon after a relatively flat passage from Shanghai. Which, is probably where I need to start because, well, its been awhile. I pretty much avoided Internet in China because of censorship (yay for not being able to get to my favourite news sites or anyone`s blog) and because net cafes there are smokier than a European bar if you know what I mean.

So… we left Okinawa on Valentines Day and, strangely enough, I was cooking. We arrived into Shanghai 4 days later after having everything go wrong (stove didn`t work one day, broke the thing holding one of the forestays up another which could have cost us a mast or two if the weather had been rougher, and broke the hydraulic line the night before arriving in Shanghai meaning our wonderful trainees and crew were up all night winching the anchor up by hand. I woke up and turned on the stove and made hot chocolate. Katie slept through the whole thing: she`s a good sleeper.) and sailed up the Yangtze River. It was grey, and dirty, and cold…

Ilya, Chris, Kara, Rachael, Sarah, and Elske cuddle to keep warm… we all look so spiffy in our crew uniforms which we have to wear arriving in any port. Now all we need are crew issue parkas, toques, and mittens for the next time we have such cold legs on Offshore!

Our poor pilot was freezing… I think he`s used to bigger boats with heated bridges.

Speaking of bridges, we passed under a cool bridge…

And suddenly, there was the skyline we had heard all about and were waiting to see…

The requisite Chinese men were there to stare at us as we came in. Apparently we look strange or something. You`d have thought they had never seen a tall ship crewed by white people before. Oh wait… we are a bit of a novelty everywhere we go. One gets used to a cool boat when it is your home!

And the local newspaper was there to take pictures (the photo is by Mr. Lu)

Then, we discovered that we had a sweet view from where we were docked.

By day…

…and by night… (yes, I was standing on deck when I took this one!)

I spent the day wandering around the area near the boat, saw narrow roads that reminded me more of China than the towering skyline of Pudong we could see from the boat.

I found the requisite markets, complete with animals, alive or dead. Unfortunately the alive ones (chickens, roosters, and ducks in this case) were crammed into ridiculously small cages)
And I also found a small Buddhist temple really close to the boat. I was the only white person, the only `tourist` there really. It was two days before lantern festival, the last day of spring festival or Chinese New Year, so the place was all decked out still and there were lots of people working their way around praying to all the various Buddhas. The smell of incense was, at times, overpowering, and its smoke filled the entire courtyard.
That night, I left to Beijing, the adventures of which the first 36hours or so were recounted for the log and posted here last.
So, the photos must follow…

The Train…
Picture 1: From the top bunk looking down, waaaay down. (Susan`s hand on top of Jose`s face, Antony and Sarah Luty bottom bunk left, Sarah Brizan in the green bandana…)
Picture 2: The corridor

Beijing… ICE!The Forbidden CityTienanmen Square
The amazingness of the night market…!


And, the Peking Opera!

Then it was off to the Great Wall for us! The four of us took a day package through our hostel that drove us up to Jingshanling section of the wall where we hiked roughly 10km along the wall to the Simatai section. Can I just say amazing! Probably the best wall I`ve done yet (and I`ve now been to 4 sections of the wall). About a third of the way in, the restored section ended and all of a sudden we found ourselves walking along a wall with no side walls and half the steps missing. It was a bit sketchy at times, but so dramatic. The wall is literally perched on mountain tops all along and in some places, the drop is almost straight down at least a couple hundred feet. Some of the classic shots you see of the Great Wall I am convinced come from here: we could see it snaking along the hills for miles.

(no kidding, eh? Some what was being cheeky!)




Then it was back home that night, Lantern Festival (after a quick stop at the night market once again!) for Sarah B and I. This time we were in the pure luxury of the soft sleeper compartment!


The post Beijing exploring of Shanghai will have to come at a later date. I`ve spent two hours on this already!

I do need to send out some big thank yous for mail: Thanks Jen, Lynne, and Nancy for the card in Shanghai, also Dad and Colleen for the package and Nancy for the letter. The newspaper clipping are being cycled through being posted on the crew head door as our sitting reading material. Now that its cooler, we don`t mind spending time in the head, its a little cooler now! Thanks to Bev for the card and to Jen for the letter and clippings as well. In Hiroshima, thanks to Nancy and Remi for letters and cards and clippings so far! The bodyless feet article is currently in the head…! Jen, Kelsey, and Adam, holy cow that was an amazing package and to whom do I owe the thanks for the stunning (and oh so becoming) yellow pants?!? Tav, the chocolate and mangos in the package to the crew were inspired genius.

Beijing!?!

Yay! We made it to Shanghai two days ago and now, all of a sudden, I find myself in Beijing! Crazy to be back here, seeing some of the same stuff I saw a year and a half ago but with different people and in a very different time of year (there is ice on the canals in the Forbidden City!). Still lots of fun. Bo asked that I send in some stuff for the SALTS log about what we’re up to so there is something else to put in other than the same ramblings around Shanghai that have been happening the last 2 days… so I figured I’d put it all up here. I don’t know if she’s going to use the whole thing, but if not, here it is in its entirety. (Saves me from having to be creative twice…!)

After some confusion as to which Shanghai Railway station we were to be at last night (lacking as we do the critical skill of reading Chinese) and following entertaining metro and taxi rides, Sarah B, Sarah L, Susan, Greg, and I arrived at our train with about 5 min to spare. Sarah, Sarah, Susan, and I were sharing a 6 bed cabin with Antony and Jose, who were already quite comfortable on the lower bunks when we arrived. We chose to travel by “hard sleeper” which means that the train cars have a long, narrow corridor down one side with small “cabins” (with no doors) off of it. Each cabin has 6 bunks – 3 on each side. I ended up on a top bunk which was just above the top of my head when standing on the floor (about 6 ft up!). The bottom bunks are the only ones with enough head room to sit up on, meaning that head space in the middle and top bunks is practically non-existent. In fact, if I removed my head, the height probably would have been perfect. Climbing up to a top bunk is also a tricky prospect which is best done with lots of caution. Fortunately, we are sailors and have a lot of experience in navigating sticky situations while moving in all possible directions. At the end of each train car is a hot water tap for instant noodles (with the warning “Be careful to scald” in unfortunate Chinglish written above the tap) as well as two toilets of the squatting variety. Jose learned the hard way that one should always wear shoes when using the head on a train. Oh, and toilets in China are all BYO TP, trains included… which means we are all carrying around packages of Kleenex in our pockets. After breakfast of “jidan chaomien” – egg fried noodles – which I got from one of the carts roaming up and down the aisle, we packed our bags for our arrival of 9:40 am. Saying goodbye to Antony and Jose, the four girls headed out to the hostel we booked just minutes away from the Forbidden City. Our walk to the hostel took us down a shopping street I remembered from last time I was here a year and a half ago, it is fun to see things and remember where I am. Our hostel is situated in one of Beijing’s hutong, neighborhoods of narrow stone alleyways and low stone/wood houses (which are typically little more than one room with a dirt floor). Sarah B and I both agree that it is one of the nicest hostels we have ever stayed at, and its location makes it even more quaint. After checking in, we walked over to the Forbidden City, where the emperors used to live in the Ming and Qing Dynasties (1300’s-early 1900’s). It is called “forbidden” because no one except people the emperor allowed to enter could. The Forbidden City is one of the largest palace complexes in the world and it stunningly gorgeous. The buildings are vivid red with golden roofs and intricately carved wood work painted with gold and brilliant shades of blue and green. It is a series of sections inside of each other getting progressively smaller, until you end up in the Imperial Garden where the Emperor and Empress lived in a palace. From the Forbidden City, we walked down to Tienanmen Square, the largest square in the world. It was crazy to think of the history of that square and to realize we were standing in it. People were flying kites and others were trying to sell us random souvenirs we didn’t want or need. Many we looking around and taking pictures like we were. A square like that is such an anomaly in China where everything is packed in on top of everything else. It was like a breath of air in the middle of the city, but not because it of the history. We ran into Chase, Raven, Chris, and Sean on our way back to the hostel and their group did much the same thing as us today, they are having lots of fun. On our way back to the hostel, we stopped at the night market for dinner. The night market is where food vendors line up along the street with food and cook it in front of you. We saw everything from sea urchins, squid, and starfish on skewers, candied fruit, dumplings and steamed buns, noodles… We mostly opted for the tamer items for dinner. Our evening entertainment tonight brought us to the Peking Opera, known more for its martial arts, acrobatics, and colourful costumes than its acting or singing… It was very entertaining and lots of fun. There were two short story lines playing tonight; one about a “white snake” guard assigned to protect an important general and the other about a sneaky soldier who steals silver for the poor from a corrupt official. It was lots of fun. Now we are all back at the hostel, taking turns through the shower, our first since Okinawa, and I think it is my turn…!

Greetings from… Okinawa… Bah.

So… two guesses where I am right now.
Yes, that is right. I am STILL in Okinawa… oh Okinawa, how I love you but am getting very very tired of you.
Staying today has meant that today I have been able to find flour which is not readily available in the supermarkets. It is like a return to Tahiti though, where all the packages are no bigger than 1kg. Being here today also means I was able to call my uncle Gord for his birthday, except it was just after midnight on his birthday and he was already in bed so I talked to my aunt Bev for awhile instead. In my defence, they were logged in to Skype, so I did not wake people up to call! And I tried Gord, I tried! 🙂
Today is a strange mix of weather – hot and sunny one minute, cold and raining the next. I:m wandering around with my sunglasses in one hand and my umbrella in the other. I feel like I have done everything that needs to be done in Okinawa. I can pretty much find my way around the town, I:ve downloaded learning Japanese podcasts and have added words like `please,` `I am sorry,` and `I don`t understand` to my vocabulary. Oh, and `Do you sell flour,` vital to my shopping success today. Actually, I found the flour all by myself, but when I go back to buy it later (I didn`t want to cart it around with me for the whole day, so I scouted this morning and will go back and buy later) I will confirm it is flour. Perhaps I will attempt to write down the characters to see if it matches. I have discovered all sorts of ingenious ways to do things without having to know Japanese, and I have expanded my character vocabulary as well. I have no idea what the word is for many of them, but I know what they mean. I will be an asian language machine by the time I get home… okay, wishful thinking, but here`s to hoping!
Well the weather is supposed to be coming back down, although we were hoping to be able to leave today, so maybe tomorrow? I`ve only been saying that for 8 days now though.

Not to be repetitive…

Good thing we didn`t go anywhere yesterday – crew on the cruise ship told us that waves were up to the break on the bow – that is 5 stories up, at least as high as the yard on our foremast. If we would have still had a foremast in 11m seas, which is what is forecast at the moment. Looks like Tuesday is the earliest we`ll get out. I would like to get to Shanghai sometime before we have to leave though!

This is getting old

So, um, we`re still here. I think its been 5 days that we have been trying to leave but have been unable to because of the weather. We thought it was dying down last night, but this morning the seas were back up. In some ways it has been a mixed blessing because there are a few trainees who have needed to visit a doctor to get various infected cuts from the south pacific checked out and a cold or two etc. But still, it would be nice to leave. Our time in Shanghai is getting cut short and I have already changed my hostel booking twice. If we stay another day, I may have to cancel it altogether which is unfortunate because it looks like a sweet hostel (in Beijing) and it may be hard to find stuff once we get there because of Spring Festival. Keep praying for us and the weather. We don`t want to make a stupid move and head out prematurely, but we have been on this small island for over a week now…

Calm the Seas!

EDIT: Feb 9, I`ve added one more ash tray at the bottom that I just found!

Bowing to popular pressure, I have taken a self-portrait showing the fauxhawk. Keep in mind that this was moments after soaking myself in the gloriousness that is the bath house and having a through scrub down so my hair is doing its thing based soley on the quality of the cut and a blow dryer at the baths. Now with proper gel, it would not be nearly as fuzzy… but I won`t get to shower again for a couple days so there is no way I`m grossing up my hair with gel.

Anyway, on to more pressing business, we are still stranded in Okinawa, the seas are back up to about 4 m and we are desperately hoping to leave today, only 4 days behind schedule. If you could remember us in your prayers, that the seas will calm down enough for us to go out and not risk hurting us and the boat, that would be lovely. Okinawa is great, but it is starting to get a little old and Shanghai is beckoning!

And now I leave you with one final thing from Okinawa: I am calling it the `Ash Tray Series.` These are pictures off of the little metal ash tray things that you see outside of malls etc at home. They are all over the side of the street here and are too funny for words. I particularily enjoy the stalker and the random helicopter. Although the 200C fire is pretty good too!






Waiting out the Weather

(Me in the Internet cafe… hat is hiding the sweet fauxhawk I got in Guam. The girl was super excited to cut one because `No one in Guam will let me`)

So here we are, still in Okinawa. Yesterday we were supposed to leave, which would have made me happy because I was not cooking and I have cooked every first day out so far this leg (and perhaps 80% of this offshore). But, there was a low all around us, so we didn:t leave. It decided to pour down rain all day instead. Katie and I did groceries in the morning and then I pretty much slept the rest of the day. Yes, we did have pancakes for Shrove Tuesday! I walked to the Internet last night and was soaked through 2 layers of pants before I even got off the pier. It was that bad. I really should have worn my foulie bottoms because my top was perfectly dry. So we were going to leave this morning, but then Skipper checked the weather and its blowing in the East China Sea – like 40 ft seas. So once again, we:ve decided to stay put another day, which makes me happy because I am cooking today, not tomorrow when we leave. Plus I am at the Internet and attempted to put on some of my movies onto my iPod. One of the guys on the boat put the tv series Firefly on, which is great!
My goal for this afternoon is to find a cheap watch to tide me over until I can get mine fixed and some mittens. I just brought gloves with me, forgetting that I love woollen mittens ever so much better. Then I:m back to the boat to see how many people I:m cooking for tonight (trainees sign up when we are at port so I don:t cook for 40 if 20 peole decide to go out for dinner) and cook dinner. Tonight, we may do an Ash Wednesday service, Jordan and I spent some time last night preparing for it.

From Neon to Public Bath Houses to Anime Characters to Castles and Dancing

Wow, Okinawa. Guam was nothing of a culture shock compared to here. The neon, the crazy Japanese-ness, the language… its fairly overwhelming. I keep wanting to speak Chinese because I know more than I do in Japanese (3 words), and my brain keeps thinking that I`m in Asia, therefore I should be able to speak Chinese. Right?!?
A major highlight has been finding the public bathhouse. Yes, that is right, a place where you get naked and walk around to various jet pools, showers, saunas, and salt exfoliating rooms (men and women separate!). For a bunch of shower-deprived sailors, it is heaven. Seriously, I can pay $10 and sit as long as I want there. I plan on going back tonight… Once you get over the initial awkwardness, it is quite fun. One of the trainees I was there with ended up having her back scrubbed down by an elderly Japanese lady. It was quite funny.
Here are some of the sights of Okinawa:

Neon, neon, and more neon…
Tall buildings?!? What are those?
The monorail we took yesterday to get to the castle. Public transport like this is such a joy and novelty for us!
They like pigs here. And they like plywood cutouts. So does Elske.
And the English translations are always a source of much humour!

Shurijo Castle, built 1500s (ish) for a dynasty that paid tribute to China – traditionally Okinawa is much closer to China than Japan. Much of the architecture is Chinese, though not as ornate as the Forbidden City.


It was raining… I now own an umbrella.


We happened upon live traditional dancing while we were there. They only do a few performances a week and only one of those includes live music (men playing three stringed instruments of an unidentified name) – and we managed to get there for it without even trying!




Thats it for Okinawa. We`re off to Shanghai tomorrow… next stop, Chinese New Year!

Some Christmas Photos

I`ve hooked up my camera to the computer here finally to get the photos off of my memory card. These are from Christmas, at the end of last leg!
Someone gets a little cheeky on the galley whiteboard… How true it is though!
Our stockings are hung by the chimney, I mean from the fore gybing tackle, with care!
The crew all gather by our sad looking betelnut christmas tree.Some of the Christmas presants made onboard:
A picture frame for Bonice from Jose, complete with one of his photos (of her)

Katie opening her box from Andrew

Noah with the slingshot I made him.

On to boxing day watersports fun…

Port watch tries to impress the judges with their costumes…

Susan goes for style points on the rope swing by holding their mascot, an onion, in her mouth

Matt hangs on for dear life on the surfboard pull

Port watch makes a final lap of the boat in the dory race

Konichiwa!

Well I`ve arrived in Okinawa, Japan. Aside from the fact that 22 degrees now causes me to wear pants and a sweater, its great! We had an insanely long wait for customs to clear us through, but finally by the time dinner was over, we could leave. So here we are! After finally finding an ATM that would accept international cards so I could get Yen, we`ve found a Net Cafe and online we go! Its very exciting to be in a big city, as big as Okinawa isn`t, its the biggest thing I:ve seen in about 6 months. From Tsoi and Palmerston, population 60 to Naha City, population half a million. I:d forgotten what neon lights look like!
The passage here from Guam was fun, although we lost the wind midway so we had to motor most of it. I did a Beijing intro en route, telling people waht there is to see/do and getting people prepared to find stuff online here and possibly book because of winter holiday. We have a bit of a pickle because we:re not sure exactly when we:ll arrive in Shanghai, but we:re aiming for around the 8th or 9th. THe plan is to be in Okinawa until the 5th. Once we leave here, I:ll be doing an intro to CHinese customs and teaching everyone the essentials in Chinese. Yay China GP training coming in handy!
I:m looking forward to exploring stuff in the next little bit and seeing what there is to do here, apparently theres an old castle in the area. Okinawa is also supposed to be known for its pottery, which is good because my mug fell off my bunk in a rather large swell last night and broke into a million pieces so I:m in the market for a new one.